Lieutenant Brian Dalrymple from Richmond (VA) Fire sent in this interesting adaptation to an aluminum stile door. The question is what tool do you grab and why?
Hopefully you didn’t drawn in by the pad locks and think of the bolt cutters. Look at the photo below, the padlocks have nothing to do with securing the actual door, they are only there to hold the expanded metal grate in place to protect the glass. The metal channel that holds the grate also somewhat protects and blocks access to the mortise lock. So the K tool is out, the A tool may work sideways, but that’s unlikely too. Some may suggest some irons work on the door, but you’re almost guaranteed to end up braking the glass in the process and loosing the ability to control the door after the force. What about grabbing the rotary saw and cutting the lock throw? It may be the most viable option in this particular scenario. As with every other forcible entry scenario, slow down and Identify and Visualize what you are trying to do. While Identifying what was securing the door, it would become very obvious that the padlocks are insignificant. Don’t get drawn in, we need to work smarter not harder.
Pop the hinge pin caps with a pick head and pull the door with a haligan, from the hingle side.
Donkey Kick…
Having the K-12 saw up front at any commercial structure is good practice. Never know if you will need it, but sure never does any good sitting back on the truck.
The good thing about glass is that you can see through it. If there is no significant snoke build/fire… etc, its probably ok to break. I would like to pop the locks off real quick with the irons to get a better picture of the door and what could be on the other side of it. Im sure the rookie would figure it out if you told him his job was on the line….LOL. Solid Work Brian
JMO, door control in this situation is not a priority. The door opens to the outside, unlike a room or apartment door which needs to be controlled to prevent fire spread to an uninvolved area. The FE saw attacking the lock throw is probably the preferred option. As implied, most would probably be focused on the pad locks which don’t look that substantial. Assuming there is a fire and the pad locks were cut, I would take the glass, knock out the cross bar and move in with the line.
The strap iron frame that the expanded metal is attached to appears to be 1/4″ at best. Inserting the adz up from underneath the frame piece just covering the top edge of the cylinder one could easily pry it up out of the way. With the cylinder exposed it could then be turned out or pulled, gaining access quicker than a saw operation or removing the security cover or compromising the glass.
Assuming that you can’t unscrew the lock from the door (I have met more than a few that I could), I would go for the K-12 to cut the bolt. This is likely to provide the best access with the least mess.
Looking closely at the keyway I don’t see a retaining ring. There is a chance that if I tried the cylinder with the vice-grips I can take the lock out. This is my favorite option on this type of door, especially when dealing with the 3am fire alarm.
looking at this door and by going off the story the locks only hold the metal cage protection to the door. the red metal plates around the dead bold are welded to this cage. An easy way i see is cut the locks pull the protection off then you have full access to the lock and you can use anything, k tool, officer tool, to get the lock off and you are in.
I agree with 65roger. Even if you show up with bolt cutters you haven’t really lost any time. 30 seconds the locks are cut take the grate out of the way and you have full access to the lock. But like I teach my guys, never just depend on plan A, always be thinking of another plan of attack.
Eff bolt cutters! All bolt cutters won’t defeat all padlocks. A set of irons will. Just saying….
You could cut the pad locks, that would let you remove the grate giving you full access to the lock cylinder.
I see little value in removing the the security screen, it has no bearing other than the corner covering the top edge of the lock cylinder, which could be easily pried (folded)up out of the way for pulling the cylinder, and if you choose to cut the lock bolt, the screen will not inhibit gapping the door with the halligan to make the cut. Removing the screen is simply a waste of time.
I have to agree with Jamie here, the lip of that frame is only covering less then an 1/8 inch of the mortise cylinder. A little prying and it seems you will have pretty good access with a rex tool to pull that cylinder. Great example of were the rex tool is superior, because it requires so little clearance to access the cylinders. This door is a good example to demonstrate the rapid entry that can be made by someone proficient in thru-the-lock. Once you have access, pulling the cylinder and tripping the lock should take you 20 seconds or less. Great input guys, nice find on the door.
I have found that I perfer unscrewing the cylinder to pulling it. Using vise-grips I will not need to bend metal to rotate the cylinder. Also, if there is nothing (seems most common during the night) then you can relock and secure the property. While this is a detail it is important as we can clear and get back to bed!
I think all the methods discussed have merit….I will say that unscrewing the lock directly relates to the “beefiness” of the set screw and the teeth of your pliers….I have seen some I can screw out east and some that it would have just been quicker to yank out with the K-or rex tool.
As has been stated size up is the key…Thanks Lt. Dalrymple for repping VA proper
I agree with 65roger. Most of us may only have the basic of forcible entry tools when you find the door. If it can be done with the irons and lock puller with out sending for a saw you are a pro not a schmoo!
The real lesson here is to be prepared for your assignment. Whatever it may be. Rears of commercials (and residentials) are generally more secured than the front. My guys are taught to always bring a saw (metal or wood depending on the const) when assigned the OV in the rear.And call out over the radio if you have a FE problem and will be delayed so everyone knows.
Fires are like a box of chocolates, you never know what ur gonna get.
Be safe
Pop the locks off with bolt cutter/ haligan and use the K-tool on the lock. then you can secure the building gain and the owner can reattach the screen at a later time.
I ordered a hoodie.
Sick bastid…oh…you said HOODIE. I thought you said…
^^^^^^
A Hoodsie joke? Isn’t this a Southern/West Coast site. All Northeast/New England references shall be stricken from the record before the other brothers figure out what we’re talking about.
I would take the pad locks then work on the main door, at the very least should you loose control of the main door yout access is not blocked by metal screen etc. Cut the locks pop the glass then take either the door or center cross bar.
This seems to be a standard glass door seen on any number of commercial store fronts. The red covering is only a protective cover to prevent the glass from being broken. That being said, taking it off will really serve no benifit when it comes to forcing the glass door. In my experience, the fastest way to enter one of these glass type commercial doors is with a K12. Simply cut between the door and it’s frame, targeting the lock bar. This prevents damage to the door and the door frame. The inside workings of the lock are easily replaced.
what about using the saw and cutting around the mesh type metal leaving the frame in place but still making a large opening…big enough to work with. and then depending on how the inner door is break the glass or force the door with a maul…
My response area has a lot of doors like this. Unfortunately, the rest of my crew does not believe in door control for a door like this (or thru the lock FE in a fire situation).
They are of the opinion that it doesn’t matter about door control, as it will be wide open with a hose line stretched through it anyway, so why bother with taking the time to go through the lock when you can just break the glass and accomplish the same task? Never mind all the broken sheets of glass on the ground and glass stuck in the door frame you’re now dragging the hose line through. They are only interested in speed vs. proper technique & safety. This attitude is rampant across my department.
im in total agreement with the saw being the only thing needed