Interesting setup with the 3 connected locks. Good to find it now instead of 2 am. Don’t carry a framing square, but have seen a similar video where a halligan was hammered through the center of the door and levered against the panic bar. Seemed to work pretty good…just another tip to keep up in the ol’ noggin.
Keith102 says:
Not knowing if the above and below locks are connected to the panic bar or not, I would probably just cut the hinges with the saw.
Antiqufirelt says:
I’m with Kieth, I like the hinges on this one. A normal panic bar usually can be actuated from the center of the door, but this on seems to be toward the lock side a little. Knowing just where to cut might be difficult and the possibility of another release mechanism may exist depending on if this was not a required EXIT or not. But all good info and more info to stuff into the corners of our heads.
With the exposed hinges, I guess cutting the hinges would be the easier option. I like the framing square idea. Just might have to get a couple of those to put on our rigs.
DMAN72 says:
Shear the bolts above and below and use conventional forcible entry on the middle. (Non-saw option)
Gabe Galaz says:
We teach using the Framing Square method but instead make your cut on the bottom half of the door so if it is a drop-bar the framing square can possibly lift the bar out of the way.
Jim says:
I’m not a firefighter, so maybe I’ve missed something, but where is the eye protection for the guy with the saw? I certainly wouldn’t cut a wood 2×4 without eye protection, never mind a metal door.
Interesting setup with the 3 connected locks. Good to find it now instead of 2 am. Don’t carry a framing square, but have seen a similar video where a halligan was hammered through the center of the door and levered against the panic bar. Seemed to work pretty good…just another tip to keep up in the ol’ noggin.
Not knowing if the above and below locks are connected to the panic bar or not, I would probably just cut the hinges with the saw.
I’m with Kieth, I like the hinges on this one. A normal panic bar usually can be actuated from the center of the door, but this on seems to be toward the lock side a little. Knowing just where to cut might be difficult and the possibility of another release mechanism may exist depending on if this was not a required EXIT or not. But all good info and more info to stuff into the corners of our heads.
With the exposed hinges, I guess cutting the hinges would be the easier option. I like the framing square idea. Just might have to get a couple of those to put on our rigs.
Shear the bolts above and below and use conventional forcible entry on the middle. (Non-saw option)
We teach using the Framing Square method but instead make your cut on the bottom half of the door so if it is a drop-bar the framing square can possibly lift the bar out of the way.
I’m not a firefighter, so maybe I’ve missed something, but where is the eye protection for the guy with the saw? I certainly wouldn’t cut a wood 2×4 without eye protection, never mind a metal door.
The pic seems to have been taken for demonstration purposes. Notice that the saw blade is not spinning and no sparks are coming from the door.