John Simpson from Osceola County (FL) Truck 72 sent in this tip to use while performing your daily equipment check. Saws have a natural tendency to bounce and rotate when idling on the ground. This is caused by the vibration of the motor. Most saws have a foot stand or plate in-between the blade and motor. In order to keep the saw in one place, simply find a crack in the asphalt or concrete and place the foot stand in the crack. This keeps the saw in one spot when idling during checkout.
As a side note, simply letting the saw run at idle is not a sufficient morning check out. This tip is intended to be used when you are letting the saws idle after they have actually been checked.
To go to the point of letting the saw idle – this can actually be bad for two-stroke engines (which most saws are). Its better to run them up and get them hot, rahter than sitting and idling.
nice idea BART!!!!
Manhole covers and grass work good too.
I don’t know what the writer above meant by “running them up and geting hot” -Manufacturers specs on most saws state to rev no more tha five seconds….thanks to Simpson for the tip!
I like how it was put that idle is not checking them. I see to many people think that and well…..run the damn thing. Your not gonna idle it on the roof are you?
Typically with 2 cycle engines you need to run them wide open for aprox 5-10 seconds and then let them sit at idle for aprox a minute. This will allow the carbon from the fossil fuels to burn out fo the carborator and allow for easier starting.
Hey guys, speaking of saws and such. What does everyone do with the choke when the saws are on the rigs? Choked or not choked? Does it matter? I personally leave them in the non choked position.
I also know our “echo vent†saw’s need an oil diaper under them while running, even at the lowest auto oiler setting it pumps oil all over the ground.
Our Echo Quickvent dumps oil as well…I thought maybe it was just ours, good to know.
I like to let the saw idle first, then run them full throtle for about 5 seconds, running the tips of the chain and vent saws close to the ground, making sure they are slinging oil all the way to the tip. Then run them idle again for about a minute before shutting them off. As for storing them with the choke on or off, I like to keep them in so when you remove the saw the choke switch does not get caught or broken. I have had this happen and it kept the choke full open when the switch broke and choked the saw out while trying to run it. I have also talked to the manufactures of our saws and checked their recommendation for daily and monthly maintenance.
Good question about the Choke, Does anyone have an answer? After I check the saws out in the morning, I leave them set up with the throtle locked and choke half way out so all I have to do is hopefully pull once and its running. Is this wrong?
This is one of those topics where information gets passed on from one guy to the next and a lot of the info is wrong. Check with the manufacturers about the specifics on the saws you use and couple that with what works on the street, that’s where it really counts.
The way I check the saws are to start them all, then go back to the first one I started and run it wide open for a few, maybe 30 secs. Continue down the line until each saw has been run at full speed, then let them run idle for a minute or two and shut them off.
-Check belt tension on cut-off saws and chain tension on the chain saws
-Check oiler on the chain saws like one guy said by holding the tip near the ground to see if it throws oil off the tip
-Top off mix gas and bar oil, they should be consumed at close to the same rate
-Check that bolts are tight holding the bar and blades
-Check teeth on blades and chain, I find a worn out chain/blade all too often in morning check
As far as the choke on, our saw guy said this was not a bad thing except as the saws bounce from riding down the road could cause you to have a “flooded” saw. I don’t know how true this is but I just took his word on it and keep the ignition and choke off until I’m ready to fire it up, it takes two seconds to do so I don’t feel its necessary to have it on to save such little time. A saw that doesn’t start will waste way more time.
Robby O, you run the saw so that the gas that had been sitting in the float of the carb can run out and clear up, no carbon buildup cause gas needs to burn to break up the carbon from the hyrdocarbon chain.
We leave all our saws with choke out and trigger locked. I start the saw let it idle for a second or two then just pull the trigger, it usually bogs for a second then puffs and runs WOT. Its always in my opinion best to leave choke out and trigger in, that way its always ready for action. I have never had a flooded out saw and our saws get banged around more than a hooker in Thailand.
We leave our vent saws in the ready to start position, with the choke on and the chain brake on. We use Stihl chainsaws with vent (bullet) chains. Actually, we leave all our small engines in this position. Haven’t had a problem with them not starting when we needed them. Another thought, I don’t think the overall debate of choke on or off when stored is as important as everyone on the department knowing what their department’s policy is. When it’s the middle of the night, dark and the equipment was needed five minutes ago, isn’t the time to be trying to remember if the choke is normally on or off when you pull it off the truck.
We leave all of our saws and any other gas powered equipment “set” for starting. That is choke out, decompression button (if equipped) in, trigger/throttle locked open, and for the chain saws, chain lock on. we run Stihl saws for our circulars so their choke is not the type that pulls out, it rotates up and down along the side of the body so we don’t have to worry about breaking them of when left set. Our other saws are Partners, and again the chokes don’t pull out, they are thumb switches that go up and down. I agree with M, the hardest part of whatever your version is is making sure that everyone understands the way it gets put back every time, and maybe even more impotantly, WHY it gets done that particular way. Sounds silly but it is amazing how some people pay no attention to the little things that make operations go so much quicker and easier.
We have one Echo Qwik vent, we keep that in the storage shed behind the station, we found that it worked best there.
Excellent posts brothers! Talk about sharing ideas!
We leave the choke on, decompression switch pushed in and the trigger locked. I’m a big fan of the bullet chain.
Brotherhood above all.
Stay safe.
Anyone use the RAPTOR carbide chain on their equipment? We’ve been kicking the idea around of getting one but can’t decide between the bullet or raptor chain. Give me some ideas.
Thanks fellas!
I have and still do this I just have two things, first we store our saws per manufact. specs: choke pulled and chain break off. Also Bryan leaving the throttle locked and half chocked could flood the saw so be careful. Second thing, I have noticed that with my partner/ rotory saws, I cant just leave them and walk away due to the blade is always spinning even at a low rate at idle. I also agree with TRUCK 4 in that, letting the saws idle for a minute or so is good so it can “warm-up” you can say. Its just like your car, you dont hop in after a night of cold temperatures and drive off really fast. Thats my 2 sense or 3 which ever. But it does work, really good so good tip, and be safe god bless.
Second that one Evan! Most guys start saws with the brakes on. They should be started off to allow the engine to turnover easier. Also, think about this. Does it only take 5-10 seconds to open a roof? If someone can do it in that amount of time i’d love to see it. We run our saws for about 15 seconds full bore, let it idle, 15 seconds full bore, let it idle and continue this process for 5 cycles. That is about the amount of time cutting you would spend on a 4 by 4 hole. Just how we do things i guess.
Leave the choke out, the chain break off, and have it ready to go. These saws should be able to handle the job, since that is what they were made for. You shouldn’t have to mess around with the choke and chain break when you get to a fire, just pull it out and start it.
We just switched over to Cobra chains, the bullet chain seemed to only be good for a few cuts, during test with the Cobra chain they made 150 cuts with very little wear, only lost some carbide teeth when a masonary fire wall was accidently hit.
My experience is that roofing nails take the bullet chain apart pretty easily, not a good chain in my opinion.
I am not understanding the “ready to go†choke on, throttle locked thing. I am not saying it is wrong do what works for you, we leave our saws switch on bar brake off for the 4 am “DUH†factor, but choke off throttle off. It seems to me you are talking about tenths of a second to choke and lock the throttle. My lunk headed crew would surely snap off the choke on the first run!!!
LTDT – I’ve used the Raptor Chains for several years and prefer them over the bullet chains. They seem to hold up better and will cut anything…even after hitting several nails and breaking off one or two teeth.
It has been a long time since we have bought bullet chains so I don’t remember how they stack up cost wise.
Here is excerpt from an article from Fire Engineering, March 2007, on power saw ops.
SAW MAINTENANCE
Just like the firefighters who operate them, power saws are expected to work on a moment’s notice and to continue through to the incident’s conclusion. Failure to perform could have serious and negative consequences for the outcome of the incident. For this reason, maintaining power saws is extremely important.
First, read the owner’s manual. It covers topics such as specifications, safety, starting procedures, fuel/oil mixture ratios, trouble-shooting, parts lists, and warranty information. All personnel should thoroughly understand these items before placing the saw in service.
Using one brand of saw will help to alleviate numerous maintenance headaches. Disposable components such as spark plugs, air filters, drive belts, and blades/chains are normally interchangeable. Controls and starting and operating procedures are usually the same. Furthermore, a single fuel/oil mixture will be used, eliminating the need for multiple fuel containers and the possibility of using the wrong fuel.
Maintenance should be done at the beginning of each shift or weekly drill. Begin by removing the saw from the apparatus to a well-lighted area. Look over the entire saw for any damage or defect that may have occurred. Take the saw outside and start it in a safe area. Allow the saw to warm up at a low revolution per minute level before running it at full throttle. Listen to how the engine responds and runs through the entire throttle range. Let the saw idle for a few minutes before shutting it down. This ensures that the cylinder will be free of any unburned fuel and prevent fouling of the spark plug. Now, return to the well-lighted area and look over the entire saw again. After it has cooled down, remove and check the air filter and spark plug. Check the spark gap on the plug. If there is any question of the spark plug’s condition, replace it. Spark plugs are very inexpensive compared with the cost of not having the saw run during an emergency. Top off fuel tanks (and bar oil on chain saws), and check the condition of the blade/chain. On a rotary saw, check the blade guard for a buildup of debris (photo 3). You may need to remove the blade to clean out the gummed-up tar with a screwdriver. On a chain saw, clean the bar, oil port, chain brake, and sprocket. Finally, reset the controls in accordance with your fire department or individual company’s guidelines.
This procedure may sound a little extreme, but people are depending on that saw to start and function when needed. Spending the extra time now will save time on the fireground, especially when someone’s life may be counting on the saw’s function.
I always try to run the saw on at least 2 min every morning check. But regardless of how long we run it i feel that there are bigger issues. I like to ensure that the chain is the proper tightness, and the bolts are tight. Fuel level is good and there is enough bar oil. If you cant start it in less then 4 or 5 pulls somthings wrong. While running make sure the chain break works, that it doesnt smoke or make any unusual sounds and that it throttles up correctly. After turning it off recheck the chain and bolts. I always store the saw with the choke off. No reason just what i was taught as a probie and what I still do.
You mean you’re not supposed to just write down that you checked it?
Our department uses Echo saws, which are great, but for my money a good Partner chop saw works in just about any situation, as long as it has a good air filter and the right blade.
I called Stihl about two years ago to see what they recommended as far running the saws up in the morning. In a nutshell this is what i got from him:
= no need to let saws idle for any specific period of time. once they are started, they are good to go.
= bringing the trigger up to full throttle is fine but when under No Load there is no need to keep it at full throttle.
= immediately after youve accomplished full throttle, start checking for Throttle Response as you make your way down to idle again. This means… does engine respond appropriately to your actions with the trigger?
I Did Not ask him anything regarding storage with the choke pulled and/or trigger locked. My dept likes to have it pulled and locked BUT i often ask myself if it really matters SINCE BEFORE I START ANY SAW, MY HANDS GO THROUGH THE MOTION OF CHECKING THE CHOKE AND TRIGGER ANYWAYS!! So its almost a non-issue.
One last thing….. Does anyone have any thoughts on weather you should fill the gas in the saw before or after you run the saws??????????
I always fill before. Why poor gas around a hot engine if you dont need to.. But really dont think it matters either way I’ve filled em scortching hot before with no issue, and im sure im not the only one.
We have Stihl, Partner and Cutters Edge. Trying to bring them all to Stihl but that is a different post. Since we have some book smart and not mechanically inclined firefighters I am recommending that we run them between 20-30 seconds only because people forget to run them and they get built up with crap. The chainsaws are to be run WOT until they see the oiler was working. Let them idle until the chain stops spinning at low idle, around 1 minute. For the cut-off saws run them WOT for about 15 seconds and let them idle down until the blade stops spinning. Once they are shut down refuel them and leave the choke closed. I say leave it closed only because guys forget its open and then lock the throttle open and flood the saw. It seems that we all have the same idea that a good morning check will give us a machine that works when we need it.
DMAN72 you crack me up!!! Ya know we just had a 225 $$$ bill because the engine guys have a vent saw on their rig that has not been run in eight months, according to the mechanic it screwed up the carb. Funny all the paper work says it has been maintained to a “T”??? Makes ya say Hummmmmm
I think the most important thing is making sure all equipment is in the “On” position, and this choke/valve/trigger thing is just part of the ritual of maintenance. By “On” I mean that the red tab on your K12 isn’t flipped, the switch near the thumb of your chainsaw isn’t set to “Stop”, your fuel shutoffs on your genlights and generators aren’t closed, etc… the frustration of “Why won’t you start!?” is reason enough for me to make sure every gas-powered tool is a pull away from starting.
We run our saws like LT330 outlined (Partner rotary saws and Ventmaster chain saws). That is how our mechanics recommended and they continue to run “like champs”. Also, of interest, is how our mechanics taught us to “fix” a flooded saw in the field. Set the stop switch to the “stop” position. Make sure the choke is closed. Pull the cord 10-20 times. Then set the stop switch in the “run” position with the choke still closed and attempt to start. If it doesn’t, then “half choke” it and try again. If it still doesn’t start, then “full choke” it. Try it – works well. Also, I recommend using the “kneeling technique” to start the saw – lessens the chance of yanking the cord out of the saw and provides more balance. Mike Ciampo has a video clip of the technique on Fire Engineering website.
ha I have been doing this for over a year at my station. Never thought of posting it.
Recently at my dept I noticed that anytime you let any saw run while its in contact with concrete it causes damage to the bottom of the saw. One morning after starting the chain saw, the saw had been running at idle on the concrete when the holding tank for the bar oil wore down so much from being in contact with the concrete that it started to leak and caught the saw on fire. We no longer let any of out saws run on concrete.
“caught the saw on fire” WHOA! I bet that was a sight. There used to be a video floating around of a crew that used a K12 to cut a garage door, then set the saw down on it’s side, and the saw caught on fire….then a fireman tried to stamp the fire out with his foot. Fairly comical.
After looking at this post several times I noticed something.
The handles of the saws are wrapped, similar to how you wrap a maul or hook. Am I seeing this correctly? I never thought of that. Is it beneficial?
Brotherhood above all.
Stay safe.
NICE DEPTH GAUGE!!!. hahahahahahahayhahashzahas
Chainsaw: chain brake off when starting. Better saw for peaked roof. Kneeling start method is great! “as long as you have maintained your saws and start regularly !!”.
What’s wrong with their depth gauge?
I am not nearly strong enough to easily use the rotary saw on a peaked roof. The gyroscopic effect is difficult to overcome to make the top cut.
I have to agree, the saw throttle has to be responsive enough. Start it, idle a little, make sure it can rev to high rpms and not bog down prematurely.
God bless the decompression valve !!!
Do not be surprised to find that your saw has metric fittings. I have seen boogered Allen screws and bolts due to people still thinking everything is “English” measurements. Stihl is German, Husqvarna is Swedish, and Partner was bought out by Husqvarna. AND Tempest(Ventmaster) uses Husqvarna motors.
PS Make sure the chain on the saw is pointing in the correct direction. I have seen it.
I don’t want to hijack this thread but what blades do people run on the vent rotary saws? We have a DSI D’ax on one and a Tiger Tooth blade on the other. They both work well; I like that when D’ax gets dull you just flip the blade until you wear out the blade. The Tiger tooth is a good forcible entry/vent saw blade, anyone have any other good suggestions???
Loosecannon,
Sorry bro, maybe it is just old school fire but I have found that those dept gauges give people a false sense of security. I understand the added safety margin but still don’t like them. It is my opinion you should be well enough trained to tell by the response of your saw what is going on. I have a saying “If you can’t operate a saw and are scared of heights ride the engine slap nuts!!!!” not pointed at you Loosecannon…
The old depth gage.. I say take it off and give it to you training department. I do see some value using it it in the training application. Remember many new firefighters are never exposed to saws and other equiptment that most of us were prior to employment. So at the rookie school it may be good for them to get a feel for what cutting ply board vs cutting 2*4 feels like. However on the truck or squad its a hug waste of time. We cut lots more then roofs. We open gable ends, make doors out of windows for RIT, cut trees off of cars involved in MVA’s etc,etc…. Try doing that with a depth gage. If you need traing wheels, A-train moore or B-stay on the engine….. Remember its not a job its a trade and a craft, take pride in doing your job and always try to improve.
FTM-PTB
Lot of good info coming out of this. Just another thing I do, is push in the decompression button after running and when putting the saw back on the truck. We all know at 3 am, that we sometimes forget to to push the button when the heat is on.
Also we are having problems with the bullets coming off of our bullet chains. We are loosing them with out even cutting anything. Is anyone else having this problem?
A few things to add brothers:
1- I have been taught that clearing a flooded saw only requires that you take the saw off choke and with your opposite hand squeeze the throttle wide open while starting as normal. This usually requires that you kneel (gently) on the air filter to stabilize the saw, but will usually cause the saw to fire in as little as 5 pulls. Regardless of the technique used, clearing a flooded saw SHOULD BE TRAINED ON. Know what works for you!!! Purposely flooding then clearing a saw does no harm to the saw.
2- The more you properly run and use a fire-service saw the happier they are.
3- Depth gauges = NO GOOD : I aggree…too many limitations on your saw, and they clog easily on crappier roofs.
4- Treat saws like additional members of your Truck, you will find that they might be smarter and work harder than your human partners riding with you.
5- I have found that Echo quick vents are afraid of heights and don’t like the taste of smoke. Just keep that in mind and have a good 8lb axe with you on the roof. Hahaaha.
Thanks for the ability to offer my opinions and 2 cents. Stay safe all!
Sean,
I don’t know about the Echo in a less than perfect environment, I had one in an attic fire we went in through an end vent and command advised “the line was in the attic†well guess what, it was not. We made two vent holes in a most uncommon method and thank god the bucked heads decided to show up with the water. It melted part of the air cleaner and it ran like crap during cutting but got the job done. Hay Mac you remember that one LOL???? I am soooo glad others agree with me about the depth gauge thing I thought I was a dinosaur!!!
“less than perfect environment…….. ran like crap during cutting…
Don’t forget “motors” need air too. 🙂
Hummmmm maybe a mini SCBA mask for a saw???? LOL, give it a cool name and say FDNY uses it and you would sell a million!!!!
I am glad to see this train get off track a little. Not to say that there is anything wrong with the initial subject. However, I have been fighting the depth gauge argument locally now for a while. Now maybe I can justifiy my point of removing the guards by showing others opinions. After all 50 miles and a briefcase makes you an expert. So the outside prospective couldn’t hurt. Always enjoy the comments.
RFB PTB FTM
LTDT… We’ve tried/used both the “Bullet” chain & the Rapco “Terminator” chain (which I believe is the same as the “Raptor” chain). We had durability issues with the “Bullet” chain (a lot of cutting teeth would be missing after just a few uses) & heard/hoped that the “Terminator” chain would be better in this aspect. Not the case (for us)… they both seem to lose teeth fairly readily, & at the approx same rate. Our OOS criteria is 3 teeth in-a-row missing, or 6 total (we have 20″ bars). One advantage of the “Terminator” chain (which we are currently using) is that it does cut a bit faster, & we have local sales & service (we don’t sharpen/repair them “in-house”, our local chainsaw shop does it for us). We had to ship the “Bullet” chains out for service. The “Bullet” chain doesn’t cut live wood well (so you’ll have to carry standard wood chain for that). The less aggressive cutter/raker set-up on the “Bullet” chain cuts with a “filing” effect. I believe this increases safety by reducing “kick-back” & “strike” damage, so it’s a safer chain overall (which of course is no reason to reduce education/training). Both chains do work well if they are fresh… we are just looking for more durability/money & time savings. I have no experience with the “Cobra” chain, but due to having cutters on every link, it’s supposed to be durable & have low kick-back properties (it does seem pricy though). The Stihl RDR (Rapid Duro Rescue) chain is supposed to have good durability. I’ve included a link that has some interesting info from a blogger named “Alta”. We may end up trying this RDR chain to see how it does. Hope this helps you out… Bill
http://www.treeworld.info/f40/carbide-chain-uses-experience-maintenance-etc-2009.html
Back on topic eh?
Well, we have 3 schools on the same street as my fire hall so we never have a shortage of little kiddies who want to hold on to a saw while it idles.
😮
I went to fire school with 17 Canadians…one of them said “fire hall” once.
The ensuing conversation form the Texas boys in class was quite funny.
“You mean like a fire STATION? No son, trains go to stations, veterans go to halls, FIREMEN go to FIREHOUSES.”
To each his own brothers.
Anybody have some more info on this “Cobra” chain? I’m familiar with the bullet. We have a Ventmaster saw and I noticed it’s damn near the exact same saw as the Cutter’s Edge…except for the bigass air cleaner.
Our Ventmaster isn’t too keen on the whole “smoke eater” concept either. Our Stihl’s do better.
Brotherhood above all.
Stay safe.
Hehe, I thought FIREMEN would go wherever the boiler or steam engine was? 😉
Nice to have a place firefighters across the continent can talk about anything from what cutters to carry to “if you stick the saw in the crack it doesn’t move.” Ah modern technology…it’s quite amazing.
Ya’ll Canucks be careful.
Brotherhood above all.
Stay safe….eh.
Anyone who has used the crack technique will tell ya, the owner of said crack is very unlikely to move.
Although at first, it’s not just the saw that’s running.
Just checked back to my notes from the conversation with a STIHL representative. In addition to what I already posted….
he recommended 89 octane fuel or better. NOT 87. Reason being, the shelf life of fuel these days arent what they used to be since there are a lot of additives. Within 45-60 days the octane level drops considerably. The fuel, even in your fuel container, should also be changed out if it sits for more than 45-60 days.
Not sure how much of an impact this truly has but it is what he recommended. There is fuel called “TOOL FUEL” out now that may be better at maintaining octane levels.
Im selling TOOL FUEL out of my back yard, 7.50 per gallon, lol!!! buy now price goes up when I call it FIRE RESCUE TOOL FUEL to 10.00 per gallon……
Just kidding guys, mabey the tool fuel does have some advantages but weve never really had any problems with regular unleaded and 2 cycle oil…
FTM-PTM
On the topic of power tools being scared of smoke, what do guys bring to the room with them besides the saws?
2nd saw staged at the base of the ladder. To the roof – Irons (flat head axe and halligan) and bag of utility rope for hoisting any additional tools. You’d be amazed how effective the flat end of the flat head axe is at opening up a peaked roof.
We have been discussing the chain issue locally and are putting together some head to head tests in the future. So far the consensus in the far Northwest seams to be leaning towards:
Bullet Chains – Slow
Raptor/Cobra/Terminator – preference
The real debate has developed over what the chain is intended to cut.
I cut a lot of roofs thanks to a training division that seeks out commercial buildings. My experience suggests that the raptor/cobra/terminator chains are developed around dedicated chainsaw departments in California.
These departments are cutting plywood covered in comp as a rule or 1×6 sheathing with a limited amount of torch down due to nice weather and a post WWII building boom.
When I cut these same roofs I LOVE the raptor/terminator/cobra chains. But when I encounter HEAVY roofing – Multiple torch downs, poured asphalt, plank and beam, car decking, etc.- The chains struggle and throw teeth.
These older roof seem to go easier when I use a conventional “wood” chain (unless there are a lot of nails – car decking etc.). The other option that works well for me is the rotary saw.
I have been told that the “new” chains are designed around “thin” roofs of multiple layered materials not the the dense heavy timber and tar of a bygone era.
It makes sense though: if you were cutting 4″ of lumber outside of the fire service what would that blade/chain look like?
Our local discussion can be found at:
http://www.pugetsoundfools.com
Tom Hofland
Brickcity,
For the Cut-off saws we just went to the Norton Rescue Runner. It has put up the abuse thrown at it from training and fires and hasn’t missed a beat. Looked at the D’Ax but norton has a distributor about 1/4 mile away from the firehouse. As for chains on the chainsaws. We are using the Stihl RDR and cutters edge regular chain. The Bullet chain is way to expensive for the limited capabilities and inability to have it sharpend in house or prfessionally. Also if the saw running at 12,000 RPM’s isn’t making the hole, it probably isn’t the chain causing the problem.
isnt the point when you check the saws to have someone stand by them to listen to the engine and hear how it runs as well as to make sure that the saw reves all the way up to its top speed properly but what would i no.
Yes, that would be the operator of the saw. I believe the point is that this tip can keep your saws from going all over the place while you are starting them and letting them warm up.
If the saw is allowed to idle on concrete, it is possible that the vibration will crack the case. It’s a two stroke….start it…rev it…and either use it or put it away.
Both manufacturers of our dept.’s saws were asked regarding morning checks of the saws and stated to allow the saw to idle for 2 min. before going through the throttle range. Obviously, on scene is a different story, but for 10 years of idling on concrete, we have yet to have a saw case crack. Not saying that it won’t, just that it hasn’t even come close yet.
it may be my view or a bad picture angle, but is the blade on the partner saw in the top of the picture on backwards…?
Wondering,
That’s a diamond blade on the saw you were asking about. Diamond blades frequently “look†like they are installed upside down but in fact that’s the way it is designed to be mounted. It helps with the cooling and self cleaning properties of the blade during rotation. –Jimm-
thx…don’t get to see many of those…
Another tip to prevent your idling saws from dancing around is to lay them on top of a plastic lid from a 33 gallon Rubbermaid trash bin. The lid must be upside down of course. This will also catch any oil or fuel drips plus any screws or nuts that may vibrate loose! Makes for easy clean-up of the lid as well!