The rotary saw equipped with a metal cutting blade is an extremely important tool for us to have in our forcible entry cache. There are a handful of modifications and conversions that we can apply to the saw to make it preform more efficient. The outboard saw conversion is one of the simplest and most effective modifications to make the saw a more versatile forcible entry tool. The outboard saw conversion involves moving the saw blade assembly to the right (or outboard) side of the saw body.
Have you ever tried cutting hinges on a outward opening metal door? Have you ever encountered a frameless glass door with a mortise lock that secures into the floor? The rotary saw is certainly a viable option for both of these situations. When utilizing a non-modified (stock) saw, it is difficult to line the saw blade perfectly perpendicular to a hinge or floor lock that is being defeated. As a result, the blade ends up cutting at an angle and tends to more likely bind up. The outboard saw conversion puts the blade flush with the saw’s body, allowing it to cut easy in tight places saving time and energy. Another situation where it may be beneficial to have an outboard saw is when cutting locks in recessed doorways.
If you have more then one metal cutting rotary saw on the rig, you should consider applying the outboard conversion to one of them. The conversion is still a viable option even if you only carry one metal cutting saw on your rig. The outboard saw gives us versatility while not compromising any other functions. The outboard saw still operates the same as a stock saw. There is however a noticeable change in how the saw “feels” to the operator since changing the location of the blade effects the gyroscopic effect on the saw. It is important to make sure everyone has operated the saw in a training setting before using it on an actual emergency run.
The photos below show the benefit when cutting a hinge with an outboard saw. The first photo shows an unmodified saw, and the second shows the outboard saw. You can clearly see how the outboard saw cuts the hinge at a better, more perpendicular angle.
The next photos show how the outboard saw cuts the floor lock. The first photo shows an unmodified saw, and the second shows the outboard saw. Again, you can clearly see how the outboard saw cuts the lock at a better, more perpendicular angle.
The outboard conversion can be accomplished with just a few quick and easy steps. All you need is the scrench that came with your saw, or a flat-head screwdriver and ratchet. Click here to download a complete step-by-step guide to perform the outboard saw conversion in PDF format.
Have you guys been able to get the manufacturer (Husqvarna in this case) to provide a letter that states that operating the saw in this configuration does not void any warranties and is safe to use? I’ve tried to convince folks in my FD that this is a very valuable and viable set-up for our saws but, since the manufacturer we use does not exist it is impossible for me to produce this document so there is a HUGE resistance to assume liability if damage or an injury were to occur while operating the saw in this manner.
I’m not asking to create drama or any controversy, I’m actually looking for assistance with how to back my play with documentation.
Thanks in advance for any help you all can give me.
You may only have to look as far as the operating manual for your saw. We use Stihl cut-off saws, and the manual gives instructions on how to mount it outboard.
Funny how some get hung up on voided warranties and “safety” when most of the situations in which we use our saws go against manufacturers’ guidelines (i.e.,odd cutting angles and heights, carbide blades, near ignition sources, etc.)
Also, here’s a link to the Husqvarna site. The “reversible cutting arm” is listed in the features of the saw. Seems that this would indicate the saw is approved for outboard use if desired.
http://www.husqvarna.com/int/construction/products/power-cutters-product-range/k-970-rescue/
Hey,
Any thoughts on the limitations of blade guard movement with an outboard setup?
We just converted our Husky Rescue 970 for outboard cutting, however the blade guard seems to have fairly limited utility now. It seems to have an internal movement limiter that does not allow the guard to be moved into a more, now forward position.
While it wont matter when cutting with the saw blade parallel to the ground (window bars etc.) any traditional downward cuts will be much more awkward.
Any thoughts on this or tips to overcome the blade guard limiter?
We tried the outboard mod on our tempest ventmaster K12 and found that moving the blade outboard affects the balance in such a fashion that the saw will not sit upright on the ground. We felt that the saw falling over is a bit of a safety concern and elected to move it back to the standard configuration because of it.
Any solutions to the issue?
Dustin,
I agree!!
We ran into this same issue this morning, of which, I don’t like. It falls over under power in the idle position. If anyone has a solution to this, please provide.
Thanks!!
Awesome… Thanks for the information and I sent it to my BC for approval. I knew if there was a solution the folks here would be able to help.
Thanks again.
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