Vise grips are a versatile tool for a number of different reasons. One of their many uses is to clamp a garage door open. When working in or around a garage it’s easy to open and keep open even after utilities have already been secured. From the inside, simply reach up and activate the emergency release mechanism, which frees the door from the automatic door opener (shown in the photo below.) Once the door is open, simply take the vise grips and clamp on the track to prevent to door from closing.
The door is much “safer” once it has been released from the door opener mechanism and clamped open. The automatic garage door opener no longer has an effect on the door. This was one of the speculations in a video we posted a few years ago, that radio interference caused the garage door opener to activate and close the door. (Which would not have happened if utilities were secured.) Another reason why the door is safer is because if heat builds up in the garage around the springs this will not cause the door to close since the track is blocked by the vise grips. (make sure the vise grips are clamped tight) The springs are normally located on the front wall above the door, or along side of the tracks. If heat builds up in this area, it could cause the springs to anneal, lose tension, and lower the door. The weakening of the spring was the other speculation in the video. A simple clamp on the door would prevent either situation from happening and prevents committing more useful tools to be used to prop the door open.
25 thoughts on “Vise Grip Clamp”
Leave a Reply
You must be logged in to post a comment.
Good, simple tip. Plus, now you won’t have to use a hook to prop it up.
Although it’s been taken out of the equation with the vise grips, the spring is not “released”. On the type of door shown, the emergency mechanism only separates the door from the electric opener (i.e., so you can still open the door during a power outage). The spring is indepedent of the opener, and is attached to the door by cables that run the length of both sides. It can’t be easily released, and fails under heat, which is why it’s important to make sure that we clamp/block the track in some way like shown above.
Nate made a good point. I’ve always prefered to bend the track with the fork end of my haligan to keep the door from closing.
This is a great idea. BUT the springs you mention have nothing at all to do with the opener. Those springs are still attached to the door and operate the exact same way regardless of the door being latched to the electric opener or not. For that matter you could take the opener completely down and the springs would still be there and operate the same way. These springs can be disconnected from the door but if you dont know what you are doing, it is easy to get hurt doing this as these springs store quite a bit of energy. Good idea again but you got some bad information perhaps on the springs being part of the electric opener and in the picture shown they are part of the door itself and the opener is independent of the door/spring system. Keep up the good work, I love this site.
You are absolutely correct about the spring still being attached to the door. I corrected the post to remove the incorrect mention of the release mechanism removing the spring from the equation. Not sure what I was thinking, I know better than that. Thanks for the reminder. -Jimm-
Outstanding idea! Even with utilities controlled however, a garage door opener can still work. There are several models out there that have a battery back-up that can be added so the door will still open and close even with the power out. Don’t get complacent! Follow the suggestion and clamp the door or bend the track to disrupt the travel of the door mechanically.
GREAT idea!! However, if you donkey kick the door out of the way, that is one less thing to worry about…
Important to remember to clamp the track as close to the bottom of the open door as possible. If the vise grips are too low on the track and the door decides to close, the momentum that the heavy door can build up will pop the grips right off the rail.
Good point BMaartin. They would come flying off of there as if they were kicked by a ‘roided out donkey!
DMAN,, LOL with the donkey thing already ??? But you were bated by lad288 !!! How about the Hagan in the hole,, how about just flat out F&Ck*ng the track up so it will never EVER close again, no not with a donkey kick but a full swing with a mall??
“how about just flat out F&Ck*ng the track up so it will never EVER close again,”
Good, but I was taught (back in the dark ages of the 70’s), to always keep in mind that the structure needs to be secured by somebody after it’s all said and done. Better for the PR and goodwill if that task isn’t made any more difficult than possible.
I’d rather use the vise grips along with a hook.. Most residential doors tracks have openings along the track and some are pretty high on the track. If you place the tip of the hook into the opening it will also assist in keepin the door up. On large commercial doors you can use a collapsable ladder 10′ foot or whatever (leave folded up) and push the tip into the rail or even a roof ladder wedged into the bottom of the door… (would be a little hard to put a vise grip 10′ off the ground on a commercial door)…
Great tip. The video link is actually from NJ not NC. The fire was in Rocky Hill, Somerset County.
Bobby T was ok, burned his hands a bit. 🙂
I have used a carabiner through the track of the door as well. The tracks often have the holes through them near the top so it will hold open. You also don’t run into an issue of the vice grips getting shot off the rail, and you don’t lose your hook to holding the door. And if the ‘biner takes a hit, replace it.
Why again are we putting a few hundred pounds of garage door above our heads and subjecting it to 1000 degrees and asking a vice grips to keep several hundred pounds of garage spring tension at bay. If the garage is on fire cut the door…… if the door is already up stay out of the area infront of and below the door until the fire is out. it is a vent point anyway
t sizzle, not sure why you’d be under the garage door if the garage is on fire or if the temp is 1000 degrees….I’m thinking the vise grips are suggested after a scenario similar to forcing entry for a second egress or for gaining access to the fire located NOT in the garage…but I’ve been wrong before.
After the door is forced, for whatever reason, it needs to be secured in place. I like to use vise grips, but like the idea of using a ‘D’, and each door/scenario is different which might require the use of another tool. I have forced the garage door for the same reasons that PFD mentioned, as well as an opening for light AND ventilation when doing overhaul after garage fires.
AAAhhhh if it was to fall it would just be on the bucket head with the knob any way rite??? I mean come on for real engine guys are a dime a dozen any way!!! LOL
I’ve used vice grips several times on working fires back in Columbus while operating on a truck company, and had great success each time. Everything we do has room for failure because a lot of these preventative measures deal with mechanical devices. As long as it is mechanical, it is subject to failure. The vice grips are just one of many tools and techniques we can use to get our job done safely. Many of the tricks mentioned here work great as well, so maybe a combination of a few of them can add that extra measure of security. Excellent discussion!!
pfd and riley I worry that people are useing the garage door as primary means of entry and attack. Then are lulled into the false sence of security of a vice grips or pike pole proping a door open. The tracks are held into the wooden joice or truss by a single bolt and price of sheet metal. The ideas mentioned in this debate are good for secondary means and after the fire is out. Use the man door for entry and attack. cut the garage door and break windows for venting
One of the things that I try to use for the garage door is the home owners stuff. Garden tools, brooms, etc. work great and I keep a handful of zip ties in my pocket for just such a thing. You can zip tie almost anything in the tracks and it is secure. We had a door release and come down on a cheap broom handle last year and did not even break the zip ties.
That way I do not loose my vice grips or carabiner when we take up and I forget about it till we are back at the station.
We try to not break anymore than we have to, even though the twist of the halligan secures the door forever. After all, the mark of a good entry is one that can be secured after the incident (although not as fun of course).
Good post on a very routine task. Great site, we check it every set.
Yo jake,, I would hope you are from bean town with that name,, zip ties are friggin Wicked LOL.. For everything in life,, Car, kids, Home, Wife/girlfriend jobs,, can it get any better !!!
We find it safer to just cut the garage door out of the way. Shoulder high across and a vertical cut on each side. A saw with a Terminator chain on it makes short work of most residential doors, metal or wood. That way there are no worries about it dropping.
Just curious, but what happens when the spring/cables recoil after cutting the bottom brace of the door? I remember a comment on an older post about a violent reaction ensuing. While cutting can also be a good option, it seems faster to just lift it and secure the track.
amen mj williams although the thought of hose draggers havin a garage door fall on them is funny lol a door within a door or strait across takes about as long as gettin the saw and startin it
First: all of the suggestions for securing the door are awesome.
Regarding the springs: those springs are rated to actually relieve the weight of the door making operation easy. If they break, the biggest problem is now the door went from weighing a perceived 5-10 lbs to a very real 350-400lbs (depending on the style/width/height of door). A couple things to keep in mind: if you use a tool that you might rely on…you will not be getting it back any time soon. If you remove the bracing device, the door will come crashing down with full force/weight. I advise NO ONE try to stop it, and had better not be under it when this happens.
Be careful of the cables on the sides next to the tracks as well. These are what attaches the door to the spring bar. Cutting them will cause the exact same reaction.